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Robes Evolution Research in China

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Tutor: CuiRongRong
School: Jiangnan University
Course: Fashion Design and Engineering
Keywords: robes,evolution,clothing history
CLC: TS941.12
Type: Master's thesis
Year:  2013
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Abstract:
Chinese traditional long suits include not only thegown. They are kinds of long dressIncluding not only the gown, Chinese traditional frocks are kinds of long dress with over-kneelength. Depending on the existence of lining or batting, they are respectively called Dan, Qia,or robe. In this paper, thistype of long gown are generally refered as ¡°robe¡±. Through theresearch of certain historical documents, archaeological reports, ancient paintings, antiques,and so on, this paper, according to the order of past dynasties, gives analysis and conclusionon four aspects of Chinese robe, including the shape, pattern decoration, color and material.Combining of modern fashion elements, and based on a comprehensive and systematicalresearch on the robe appearance, development and evolution, this paper aims at designingcertain creative styles of robe.The evolution of the function is one of the important factors ofgown evolution for thousands of years in China, it is used originally as the underwear,andthen changed from casual clothes to the later emperor¡¯s royal apparel, and finally evolvedinto a fashion. It mainly used as underwear gown in the pre-qin period, in addition, has alsobeen used by emperor as a kind of underwear. In Han dynasty, robes were weared by bothmen and women, and the ups and downs was connected, and the gown began to change fromunderwear and the Emperor dresse into court dress. the robe began to emerge as a kind ofshirt in part of the court dress. In Donghanyongping2year (AD59), gowns began to bedefine as court dress, Peiyinshou was mainly used as official logo, and robes was formallyruled as court dress legally.In Tang Taizong¡¯s times, even ordinary people can wear gown, butpeople will bedistinguished in different classes by the color of their clothing. at that time,Robe shirt were used by both men and women, and the differences existed in minor parts,such as there was an patchwork on the lap of men¡¯s robe shirts, while there was no with thewomen¡¯s robe shirt; In Song dynasty, the gown were weared by all classes, but the fabricswere different. Official robes in the Yuan dynasty was made of Luo, and the classes aredistinguished by the different graphic pattens. there mainly containsQiulong robe, Tianezhijinrobe and there were also Bupao, with leather inter-inlaid in its collar and sleeves.Robes in theMing dynastyare derived from Tang dynasty. The thirdyearof Dr LO Wing-lok(1405)prescribed: wings good Crown, robe set collar and narrow sleeves,Jade belt. Hongwu15th yearsprescribed, At the time ofagrand ceremony,singers wear single robewith smallsleeve,service uniform, black margin processes using robe with large sleeves.Officialuniforms are trappings of civil officials inthe Ming dynasty, decoration different to distinguishbetween grades.Clothing Mandarin square on the chest and back is an important symbol ofdistinction. Ming dynasty robes began to make ¡°Bufu¡±. Robes as a dress of the Qingdynastyhas a detailed classification. Robes are divided into embroidered robe, dressed inuniforms or robes, robe. Woman in robe, robes, embroidered robe robe, etc. The color andpattern in normal robes varies with anybody,while just theRoyal family can use the robeswithfour slit style. Where the sleeve endsare designedto theshape of horse¡¯s hoofs.In the presenttime, men wearing robes and women wear cheongsam. As a result of the influence of Westernculture, cheongsam began improving, adding such elements as the provincial road, robesbecame the most popular Chinese clothing fashion. Robes for men¡¯s coat during theRepublican period, the structure for the Chinese gown embroidered collar loose-fitting, long Abstract straight and right angle lapel, hem slightly round, with six to nine of FROG. In themiddle of20th century,cheongsambecoming more and more popular,later becoming a generalfashion, In the1930sand1940s, Whether elderly or a young man,the Cheongsam are gettingmore and more popular, gradually replacing the formof ¡°The upper body clothing, lowerbody wear skirts¡±.
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