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Research on the Influence of Wing Tension on Bra Pressure and Stability

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Tutor: WangJianPing
School: Donghua University
Course: Fashion Design and Engineering
Keywords: Bra,Wing,Pressure comfort,Stability,Prediction model
CLC: TS941.713
Type: Master's thesis
Year:  2013
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Nowadays, more and more bra consumers pay attention on bra pressure comfort and stability, as these two properties make a big difference not only on bra wearing comfort and shaping capability, but also on consumers¡¯ health. As a consequence, the influence of wing tension on bra pressure comfort and stability is researched in this issue, finally the pressure range of bra band that meets with pressure comfort and stability as well as physiological and psychological comfort is determined, and the pressure prediction model is established according to wing tensile strength.By SPSS statistical analysis of276bra consumer questionnaires, it is found that there is a low satisfaction with bra pressure comfort and stability, mainly because of the unreasonable pressure of wire and band, and the unstable phenomenons such as shoulder strap slipping, cup and wing up moving etc.. These results indicate that bra band pressure comfort and overall stability need to be improved urgently.Using [TC]23D body scanner,2003D body models of young women are captured. According to bra sizing coverage and breast shape subdivision, the chubby and relatively towering kind of75B are chosen as study objects. Using reverse engineering software PolyWorks, three-dimensional production software3dsMax and engineering Drawing Software AutoCAD, by means of layer-mesh modeling method, a middle chest model of the objects is builded.Based on breast parameters of the builded model, taking the research results of5brand bras and the required push-gather effect of bra into consideration, and applying ergonomic principles, the curve length and inside diameter of2D wire are determined as21cm and12.5cm, while the curve length of inner/outer/upper/lower cup are7.5cm/9.1cm/4cm/7.5cm, and the wing drop is4.1cm. Taking60cm as basic length of bra band and1.6cm as variation,8bras are made by grading3/4times toward smaller/bigger directions respectively. The basic style is75B,3/4cup, straight wing. Using air-pack pressure measuring system, pressure values of4different points on side band of8bras on7healthy75B females are measured. The results indicate that the average influence of respiratory state on these4points is0.26kpa. At the same time, displacements of6points after certain movement are measured by means of Martin Measurment. The regulation of bra displacement is discovered as:Cup up moving accompanied with wire retreating decreasing the volume of cup to breast, while wing up moving weakening the raise function of wing and shoulder strap on cups.By subjective experiments on bra pressure and stability, as well as objective experiments on physiological index such as heart rate, taking the average pressure values of the4points as the pressure value of side band area, the pressure range of the side band area that satisfied not only pressure comfort and stability, but also physiological and psychological comfort is determined as2.402-2.787kpa.Using multifunctional material testing machine, tensile Properties of wing is measured. Applying regression analysis, taking the tensile strength(N) of wing when it is stretched to wearing size as parameter, the pressure(kpa) predicting model of side band area is established as y=0.958+0.292x. The model is proved ideal by comparing predicted values and measured values by means of two paired samples T-test.Based on market research and3D modeling technology,8bras that have different band length are made. By subjective and objective experiments on pressure and stability, as well as physiological index experiment and wing tensile property experiment, comfortable pressure value range of side band area is determined and the pressure predicting model is determined. The overall results can be used to predict the pressure value and evaluate the pressure comfort when different bras are on different consumers, providing scientific reference for the company to design and develop new bra productions as well as for consumers to choose suitable bras, and overcoming some defects of the traditional empirical prediction and repeat fitting methods which are lack of scientific basis.
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