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Research on the Structure of Girdle Based on Young Female's Hip Shape

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Tutor: WangJianPing
School: Donghua University
Course: Fashion Design and Engineering
Keywords: girdle,hip shape,fabric elastic properties,clothing pressure,commodiousquantity
CLC: TS941.17
Type: Master's thesis
Year:  2013
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Abstract:
Girdle is a common product of shaping underwear, it modifies the shape of lower body by tightening waist, abdomen and leg and raising hip. Girdle is getting more and more women¡¯s love due to its good shaping effect. However, girdle in the market currently varies greatly, some girdles have good static appearance, but uncomfortable pressure arises when we wear the girdles.This paper aimed at balancing the shaping effect and pressure comfort, focused on commodious quantity, established regression models of fabric tensile force, shaping value and clothing pressure by using SPSS to analyze the data of fabric elastic properties test, objective pressure values, fabric elongation values and shaping values, and obtained commodious rate range corresponding with five kinds of fabrics used in experiments based on the regression models. The specific content in this paper are as follows:1) A questionnaire investigation were carried out on women¡¯s girdles in Shanghai with301effectively collected. Consumers¡¯purchase and demand information were learned and determined the research direction, including research purpose, namely how to balance the shaping effect and pressure comfort.2) A total of153effective samples which are females¡¯ hip data wearing M type girdle aged18-35years old are collected by using Martin measuring instruments. Nine kinds of hip shape are obtained by using SPSS to cluster153samples with waist-hip angle, hip high ratio as categorical variables, and confirmed the hip which has moderate thickness and low hip point as the study object.3) Fabric constant elongation tensile test and constant load tensile test for five kinds of fabric were done. No loose boxer girdle pattern which was obtained by using gypsum method was scaled to L, M, S style girdle pattern, then based on them fifteen girdles were made. Then Clothing pressure on the abdomen point, hip side point and hip point were measured while five subjects in girdle correctly varied from static, uplifting leg to squatting, and fabric elongation and shaping values were measured. At the same time, by using subjective evaluation method, the aesthetic and comfort evaluation in fifteen girdles were carried out. Finally, by using SPSS to analyze above data, pressure comfort threshold on test points and the corresponding shaping values range are calculated, and the regression models of fabric tensile force, shaping value and clothing pressure were established as follows:Abdomen point¡ªz=0.270+0.240x+0.01ly (abdominal thickness reduction)Hip point¡ªz=0.392+0.165x+0.002y (Hip height increment) Where:x:transverse tensile force(N); y:shaping value(mm); z:clothing pressure(KPa)4) Based on the regression models of fabric tensile force, shaping values, clothing pressure and combined with the data of fabric elastic properties test, commodious rate range corresponding with five kinds of fabrics were calculated. Three kinds of fabric were selected, no loose patterns were revised according to the corresponding commodious rate, then three girdles were made to do wearing evaluation. The evaluation result showed that the three girdles had good aesthetic and comfort, so the reasonableness of the experimental results were verified.This paper was innovative to explore the relationship of commodious quantity, shaping value, clothing pressure and fabric elastic properties. Girdle designers can estimate the commodious quantity to do girdle pattern design by doing fabric elastic properties test, and this will have important practical significance.
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