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Study on the Detail Optimization of Men¡¯s Suit Pattern Design and Evaluation of Virtual Display

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Tutor: ZhangWenBin
School: Donghua University
Course: Fashion Design and Engineering
Keywords: men¡¯s suit,apparel structural optimization,clothing pressure,virtual display,eva
CLC: TS941.712
Type: Master's thesis
Year:  2010
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With the economy and people¡¯s living standard improving, Chinese consumers have become increasingly demanding for personalized modeling and internal comfortableness of suits At the same time, some changes have taken place about the consumer¡¯s body feature, especially the shoulder, chest, waist, back, torso, etc., In order to elevate the satisfaction of customers and make suits more suitable for three-dimensional morphological characteristics of the human body and meet the comfort demand for movements,paper pattern design of suits must adapt to the current characteristics of the consumers in body details.This research is funded by a cooperative scientific and technological project between Donghua University and Youngor Group, called as "Men¡¯s body size database and pattern optimization." The main task of this research includes establishing a database of Chinese male body size, suits modeling study, study on pattern structure and its compatibility with manufacture process.This paper focused on men¡¯s suits pattern optimization and its compatibility with process, virtual display and effect evaluation, the main research contents are as following:First, according to ergonomic principles, anthropometric test are conducted in four geological regions:North China, Northeast China, eastern China, central China and southwest China, among two age groups:20¡«29 year-old and 30¡«50 year-old male adults, using the application Martin measurement method. By statistical and morphological characteristics analysis on adult male human body data of the shoulder, chest, back, which are obtained from above four geological regions and two age blocks, body model of the four regions and two ages are fabricated by referring to parts of the human body control parameters.Second, by applying the human-oriented design concept,based on ergonomics in the human body,three-dimensional design on men¡¯s suit shoulder,chest,back becomes achievable.With structural optimization on pattern design and compatible process,compatibility of garment design and each part of human body is achieved.Eliminating margin of the intermediate floating of body clothing, structural design optimization based on traditional men¡¯s suit design is experimented. Eight sets of man¡¯s suits are made and then their pattern structure reasonableness are verified on body model to have effect evaluations.Thirdly, by adoptions of the flat balloon pressure test system developed by Japanese AMI Co., Ltd, pressure test in the corresponding body model is studied. With the use of fuzzy comprehensive evaluation of the data analysis, the reasonableness of men¡¯s suit structural optimization is verified.Fourth, by adopting 3D Runway technology created by US PGM Company, three-dimensional virtual demonstration are tried to verify the effect. According to the virtual apparel fitting results and the strain diagram that reflects the tightness of all parts, further validation on men¡¯s suit structural optimization is researched.This paper uses combined methods of theoretical analysis with production practice. Based on the men¡¯s characteristic of two age groups in four major regions, men¡¯s suits structural optimization design is achieved. In the clothing verification process, trying on body model, clothing pressure test and virtual apparel fitting technology are applied to effect verification and related evaluation. From a practical point of view, rationality of structural design optimization is proved. The methodology in this paper is considered to have great innovation.
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