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Research on Structural Design Factors of Women¡¯s Corset Based on the Pressure and Body Shaping Effects

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Tutor: ZhangDaoYing
School: Donghua University
Course: Fashion Design and Engineering
Keywords: Corset,Draping,Plastic value,Shrunk-to-rate,Optimum Theory,Structural Design Fac
CLC: TS941.717.9
Type: Master's thesis
Year:  2010
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The current study is on how the major structural design factors influence corsets¡¯ body shaping and pressure effects. The corset styles and wearing objects were determined through an investigation into the corset¡¯s styles, fabrics and accessories in the Shanghai area. The templates of different shrunk-to-rates were made from the co-functions of fabric elasticity and the draping non-elastic fabric templates.Firstly, the market and the consumers were investigated for the corset styles and the frequently-used fabrics and accessories. Both the high street and online shops were investigated, from which the research objects were identified and the common structural design factors were sorted out. The investigation also backed up sample making in the later stage.Secondly,50 postpartum women at the ages of 25-35 were measured for the human dimensions of the abdomen. The data collected were to support dress-form correction.Thirdly, the templates of non-elastic fabrics were then cut on the corrected dress form in the draping method.Fourthly, the templates were produced at the shrunk-to-rates of 70%,80% and 90%, based on which nine samples were made from three fabrics of different elasticity. The human dimensions and the pressure were measured when models had the samples on. The plastic effects were represented by the "plastic values", the measurement difference of the same body part without and with corsets. The interrelation between fabric elongation, the shrunk-to-rate, the pressure and the plastic value were analyzed by means of regression analysis and optimization analysis. The former analysis was conducted with SPSS, and the latter MATLAB. The two analyses led to the shrunk-to-rate and fabric elasticity which resulted in physically comfortable corsets with optimal body shaping effects.Finally, based on the optimal shrunk-to-rate and the best fabrics, the common structural design factors were applied to corset-making. All together 18 samples were made:two sample clothes with different division structures after the clothing piece, three sample clothes with different number fishbone, thirteen sample clothes with different tilt directions of the fishbone. The pressure and body shaping effects of those samples were compared to see the influences of the design factors.
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